Hyundai Palisade Tows Misfortune Turns Viral – Daily Car News (2026-03-15)

Thomas Nismenth
2026-03-15T08:32:09+02:00

Daily Brief: When Fighting a Tow Truck Goes Sideways

Every now and then, car drama jumps the curb and barrels into the wider world. Today’s talker is a short, sharp clip of a Hyundai Palisade getting into a tug-of-war with a tow truck—and losing in spectacularly quick fashion. It’s the sort of 20-second lesson you feel in your molars: momentum, leverage, and a very stubborn differential don’t care how much throttle you give it.

I’ve been around enough tow yards and roadside recoveries to know how this goes. You see your car half-lifted, heart rate spikes, and logic leaves the chat. But let’s use this moment for something useful: why these encounters turn ugly in seconds, what modern SUVs do (and don’t) do well when half-hoisted, and how to handle a tow situation without wrecking your drivetrain—or your day.

Why You Don’t Beat a Tow Truck: The Abrupt Physics

Tow trucks win the leverage game. A wheel-lift grabs a vehicle by its tires and uses the truck’s mass and hydraulics to control the car’s direction. Your throttle input is just a loud opinion.

Weight transfer isn’t your friend. Big crossovers like the Palisade tip the scales around 4,300–4,600 pounds. Once that mass pivots off-axis with two wheels raised, the center of gravity shifts and things get sketchy in a blink.

Locked wheels fight you. If the parking pawl or an electronic park brake is engaged on the raised axle, you’re dragging locked tires against steel. That’s smoke and sidebar damage, not escape.

AWD complications. Many all-wheel-drive systems don’t love being towed with only one axle on the ground. Clutches and differentials can overheat or bind—fast.

Modern SUVs vs. Old-School Towing: A Bad Mix When Rushed

Crossovers like the Palisade are engineered for comfort, traction, and crash safety—not for being hauled around mid-tantrum. A few modern-tech quirks that make impromptu getaways dicey:

Electronic shifters and park-by-wire can lag if you’re frantically toggling. The car might not be in the gear you think.

Auto hold and electronic parking brakes can clamp the wrong axle at the wrong time.

Stability control doesn’t anticipate a wheel-lift; it reads weird angles and wheel speeds as an emergency—and cuts power when you want full shove.

What To Do If Your Car’s Mid-Tow

I’ve talked to tow operators, sat in lots of cabs, and—like any city dweller—paid my share of release fees. The safe, smart play looks like this:

Stop. Breathe. Film. Calmly document the condition of your car and the tow setup (straps, angles, which axle is lifted).

Ask who ordered the tow. Private property? City enforcement? Lender? You need that answer to resolve it.

Confirm AWD/4WD requirements. Politely insist on a flatbed or dollies if your drivetrain demands it. Most pros will oblige if available.

Settle on the spot if that’s an option. Many municipalities allow a “drop fee” once the vehicle’s hooked but before it rolls. Have cash or a card ready.

Don’t get in the car once it’s partially lifted. It’s unstable—easy to slip off geometry you can’t see from the driver’s seat.

Important: Laws vary wildly by city and country. Blocking a lawful tow or climbing into a half-lifted vehicle can escalate to fines or arrest. When in doubt, step back, record, and call the non-emergency police line to document the dispute.

Flatbed vs. Wheel-Lift: What’s Safest for Crossovers?

Towing Method | Best For | Main Risks | Quick Note
Flatbed (rollback) | AWD/4WD, performance cars, low ground clearance | Loading angle can scrape low lips if ramps/blocks aren’t used | Safest all-around; all four wheels off the ground
Wheel-lift (two wheels up) | FWD or RWD with the driven axle lifted | AWD damage if used incorrectly; bumper rub if angles are bad | Fast in cities; add dollies on the rear for AWD
Tow dollies (with wheel-lift) | AWD/4WD when no flatbed is available | Poorly secured dollies can skate; needs careful setup | Good middle ground if done by the book

Roadside Reality: Little Things That Prevent Big Bills

Know your driveline. If your crossover is AWD—even on-demand—assume flatbed or dollies.

Disable auto hold and release the e-brake when the operator asks (and it’s safe), so nothing binds during loading.

Remove valuables before the truck pulls away. Tow yards are busy places; better safe.

Photograph wheel straps and bumper clearances. If there’s damage later, you’ve got timestamps.

If You Think the Tow Is Wrong

Gather paperwork: registration, proof of payment (if it’s a repossession dispute), or permit details (if it’s private parking).

Ask for the operator’s company name and truck number. Stay civil; everyone’s phone is recording.

Pay the drop fee if offered, recover the car, then challenge the tow legally. Fighting physics in the street is a losing strategy.

A Quick Word on Damage and Claims

If your car was towed incorrectly—say, an AWD lifted by one axle without dollies—you may feel driveline shudder, warning lights, or smell overheated fluid afterward. Document everything immediately:

Take photos of the underbody, tires, and bumpers.

Get a shop to scan for codes and inspect the diff/clutch packs.

File a written claim with the tow company and your insurer, including your photos and the shop report.

Operator’s Perspective (And Why Calm Wins)

Most tow pros I’ve ridden with are exactly that—pros. They’ll work with you if you keep your cool. The moment a driver floors it in a half-hooked SUV, everyone’s risk spikes: straps snap, steering kicks, and 4,500 pounds tries to pirouette on a single pivot point. You cannot out-muscle that math.

Bottom Line

The viral Palisade scuffle is a hard reminder: adrenaline and drivetrains don’t mix. If a hook is on your wheel, you’re not in a chase scene—you’re in a liability minefield. Document the situation, negotiate a drop if you can, and insist on the right equipment for your vehicle. It’s cheaper than a differential.

Quick Takeaways

Tow trucks win; don’t “throttle out” of a hook.

AWD crossovers need a flatbed or dollies—period.

Use your camera, not your right foot. Document everything.

If offered, pay a drop fee and sort the dispute on paper, not pavement.

FAQ

Can I safely drive off a wheel-lift if only two wheels are up?

No. The car is partially immobilized and unbalanced. You risk underbody, tire, and driveline damage—and injury—within seconds.

Is it ever okay to tow an AWD with two wheels on the ground?

Generally no. Use a flatbed or add dollies to keep all four wheels off the ground. Check your owner’s manual; most forbid two-wheel towing.

What should I say to the tow operator first?

Ask who ordered the tow, confirm your car’s driveline needs (AWD/4WD), and request a flatbed or dollies if required. Stay calm and record the exchange.

How do I prove tow-related damage later?

Time-stamped photos at the scene, a repair shop’s diagnostic report, and the tow company’s details (truck number, operator name) form a solid paper trail.

Is blocking or climbing into my car during a legal tow allowed?

Laws vary by location, but obstructing a lawful tow often carries penalties. When in doubt, step back, document, and resolve it through the proper channels.